Information About Hungarian Wines Is At The End Of This Page.

The land of Hungary has always been blessed with a climate and soils perfect for viticulture and wine making. A wide variety of soil types and sunshine in abundance have made the land a wine making region that goes back to the Celts in the 3rd century ad.

The Romans brought the first vine-shoots to this fertile land of the Carpathian Basin, and they established the first vineyards in Szerémség, Baranya, Tolna, the Buda Hills and Lake Fertő.
It has been said that Attila the Hun's warriors were fond of Hungarian wines, and at the time of the Magyar tribes (896 AD) Arpád awarded his subjects with vineyards in the later legendary Tokaj-Hegyalja region.

The wines of Szekszárd, Somlóvásárhely, Pannonhalma, Mór, Eger, and Csopak were a major source of income during the medieval period too. At around the 14th century new areas were designated for vineyards and royal vineyards were created at Somlo. Other areas popular at that time included Gyöngyös, Debrő, Verpelét and Domoszló.

The cities of Sopron, Pozsony, Kőszeg, and of course Buda passed severe regulations in protection of their own wines, banning the import and selling of foreign wines. Before the 150-year occupation of the Turks many varieties of Italian and French grapes were brought in, as well as the custom of producing so called ürmös csemegebor, or vermouth. The Kadarka grape, later widely grown, was brought to the Szekszárd region by the Serbs persecuted by the Turks. The Turks also destroyed the famous Szerémség vineyards. In the Turkish era the Eger white grapes were replaced by red types and in time the Hungarians learnt how to make red wines from the Serbs.

It was in the 16th century that the Tokaj region started to be fashionable, with late harvesting and the aszu grapes (prone to botrytis) producing the sweet white wines the region is still renowned for.

Tokaj became known as the 'wine of kings, king of wines', so termed by the Sun King, Louis XIV. It was soon to become a favourite among the royal households of Europe.

The Wines of the Balaton hills were greatly valued, especially the Badacsony types. The Books of Badacsony Hegyközség village were first written in 1752 which was when most peasant wine cellars were built (the date is carved into the lintel of each cellar), and the characteristic arcaded, two-storey wineries were erected then too.

Due to the breaking of indigenous grasslands in the Great Plain (between the Danube and the Tisza rivers) in the last decade of the 18th century, sand overran the land. In order to obstruct the diffusion of sand vine plantations were founded. By the end of the century there were a great many cellars, and modern methods of cooperage were adopted.

In the 19th century new production methods were developed, the cubic capacity of barrels was standardised, and in the latter half of the century vinicultural equipment was fully modernized.

From 1882 phylloxera, took a heavy toll of Hungary's vineyards: almost half of the country's plantations were destroyed.
New imported varieties replaced the ravaged vines and this revived the country's viniculture. In the period following the Second World War viniculture and wine-production saw rapid development again.

GRAPES FOR WHITE WINE

Furmint
Yellow with greenish tints, with a bouquet reminiscent of ripe apples in youth. After ageing in wood it develops an aroma of honey and walnuts. Rich in extract, it makes a heady, robust wine with accented acids. It requires ageing and is suitable for keeping. It is commonly known as the grape used for Tokaj Aszú. The principal growing areas are Tokaj and Somlo.

Hárslevelű ('linden leaf')
A late ripening variety that has a thin skin and therefore ideal for Botrytis infection (in the Tokaj region). Greenish yellow with a fruity, light aroma. Faintly spicy on the palate, it offers more elegant acids than Furmint, and some tartness in the finish. The resident grape of Hegyalja, Somlo, and the Villany-Siklos region.

Juhfark ('sheepstail')
The name comes from the shape of the grape's clusters. It makes a straw-yellow wine with a restrained bouquet. Well defined acids and tartness on the palate. It is an uncomplex wine that improves greatly with time an ages gracefully. Unique to the Somlo district and when good wine is made from it, it is a real revelation.

Leányka ('maiden')
Originally a Transsylvanian variety, yielding a with an understated aroma and for the most part soft acids, which is ideal for conversations. It is only suitable for long-term aging in exceptional years. The Eger region is one of the main growing areas.

Olaszriszling ('Italian or Welschriesling')
Related to Rhine Riesling only by name, this grape produces a straw-blond wine, occasionally with flashes of green. Not really rich in aroma, but the big wines have a bouquet reminiscent of mignonette. Invariably milder than Rhine Riesling, it has refined acids that are highly dependant on location and the year. It often has bitter almonds in the aftertaste. The best wines come from Csopak in the northern Balaton.

Tramini (Gewürztraminer)
In Hungary it is the spicy version of this grape that is better known. When ripe, the fruit is reddish in colour, making a wine that is golden yellow even in youth. It has an intense fragrance with a touch of rose and apricot, a muscat-like aroma. Except in Somlo, the wine's acids are mellow rather than pronounced. While it can handle some residual sugar, it is nicer when dry or semi-dry. The taste recalls lychee and cinnamon. It is grown in several regions across Hungary.

Muskotály (Muscat)
Sárga Muskotály (yellow muscat or muscat de lunel) is more elegant than Ottonel. Both varieties have an opulent, perfumed bouquet reminiscent of orange blossoms and contrary to popular belief they possess excellent if not very long-lived acids. When overripe, it produces a lovely dessert wine and can be found as the third ingredient of Aszú wines. At its best in cooler areas like Tokaj.

Szürkebarát (Pinot gris)
The ripe grapes are purplish red, making a wine that is pale gold in colour. When it has a high sugar content, it produces a naturally sweet wine, but its genuine aromas and flavours are best displayed in its dry version. Crisp and distinctive, the Hungarian version of this grape provides an interesting dimension. At its most attractive in Badacsony, and in the Balaton upper country.

Zöld Veltelini (Grüner Veltliner)
Major white variety in neighboring Austria. It should deserve more attention. It has a refreshing aroma, with the best wines resembling black pepper and mint. It commands a plentiful range of lovely acids. In Hungary the best Veltelinis are produced in Mőcsény and the upper Balaton country.

Irsai Olivér
A cross between Pozsonyi fehér ( white of Pozsony) and csabagyöngye, with a muscat aroma and gentle acids. It ages fast. A good wine for conversations.

Cserszegi Füszeres ('Cserszeg spice')
Its wine has recently appeared as a pure varietal and achieved fame in the UK. It is a welcome native addition to the better known Irsai for those who like an aromatic wine.

Grapes for Red Wine

Kadarka
A native Balkan wine, it was believed to have been brought to Hungary by the Serbs in the 16th Century. It was extremely popular in the 19th Century but was almost completely eliminated under communism. It used to make an excellent red when the vines were trained low, supported by staves only. While the wine is on the paler side owing to lower tannins, its acids are vigorous and well balanced. In good years it shows plenty of flavour all the way to spice. It matures well. The best known area is Szekszárd, which has always supplied us with the best quality, too. It is one of the key constituents of Bikaver (Bull's Blood) and is undergoing a revival.

Kékoportó ('blue Oporto' or Portugieser)
A grape that can only shine in its true colours in a warm climate (e.g. Villany and Szekszard), where it offers supple delicious acids and velvety tannins. It is not a long-lived wine in itself, usually blended with 10-20% Kekfrankos. An ideal easy going wine for a chat. When yields are severely reduced, its barrique interpretation can be a revelation.

Kékfrankos (Blaufrankisch)
Even in maturity its wine is closer to purple with crimson tints than to the "warmer" colour of a typical red wine. It can have rather hard acids, especially in cold growing areas such as Sopron. Although low yields will result in high extract, the wine will remains plain but straightforward and reliable. (Also known as "Nagyburgundi.")

Zweigelt
A recent hybrid of kékfrankos and Saint Laurent. It rarely makes a truly appreciable wine because the stocks can carry great weight, leading to high yields, which in turn entail diluted extract. If the yield is controlled, the wine can have good acidity, but it rarely ages well. Planted in many areas throughout the country.

* Information courtesy of Rohály's Wine guide